From Dream To Reality
Learn how to pick a log producer that will match your vision of the perfect home.
You have what is affectionately known as the fever. Log home fever, that is. It manifests itself in several ways: poring over floor plans, clipping articles, ogling gorgeous homes in the pages of this magazine and surfing the Internet for property. Now comes the tricky part. You need to choose a log home provider.
The good news is that most providers are equipped to make your choices seamless and easy. They'll help you create a plan, select a log package and assist you in the building process. In short, they're well equipped to take your dream from blue- print to reality.
Log home producers are separated into two categories, manufacturers and handcrafters. This distinction is based on the methods they use to craft their logs.
Manufacturers represent a larger segment of the log home industry. Producers use mechanized saws and planers to cut and shape their logs to uniform sizes. But don't confuse uniformity with a lack of unique- ness. Though the logs are precision- milled, the finished homes look different from one another because of the wide variety of log profiles and corner styles that are available. The log profile, or shape, can vary from round to rectangular to square to D-shaped. Some homes have round logs with traditional comers on their exterior, while others have logs that are planed to resemble clapboards. The benefit to all of this diversity is the wide range of possibilities for your home.
Handcrafted log homes, on the other hand, often showcase timber that has been left fully round on both the interior and exterior of the home or hewn square in me traditional Appalachian style. When working on raw logs, handcrafters use either traditional manual tools or hand-held power tools. Because tree trunks taper from their narrow tops to wider butt ends, handcrafted logs may be smaller in diameter at one end than the other. The handcrafter compensates for this natural taper by alternating logs during stacking-top to butt, then butt to top-to keep walls level.
A manufacturer usually completes more log homes per year than a handcrafter, who may build just a handful of log shells annually. Although some handcrafted log producers turn out a large number of homes each year, the handcrafted method simply doesn't lend itself to mass production. Most concentrate on crafting the log shell and erecting it on the homeowner's site, then working with other subcontractors to integrate wiring and plumbing into the log shell.
Log manufacturer on the other hand, often maintain both a national headquarters and a network of representatives who sell manufacturer's log packages. These representatives also may be builders (called "builder-dealers”). They will supervise the construction of die log packages they sell.
Log Manufacturing 101
Your log manufacturer research will quickly show you that these national or regional companies develop master engineering plans with which all their homes comply. This plan, which becomes the company's building system, details how the manufacturer's components connect to one an- other and how these parts interact once connected. The building system provides assurance that all manufacturer log homes built in accordance with the system will be structurally sound.
Log home manufacturers may have their building systems evaluated by one or more of the agencies that write United States building codes. Once the building systems receive approval, the log home company can produce packages to be built in various regions.
The package you purchase from a manufacturer typically contains logs and other materials needed to construct the log shell. The package should include blueprints for the home and a construction manual that shows the builder or general contractor how to assemble the log wall using the building system. Some log packages also contain an array of building materials-windows, doors, roofing and lumber-needed to build a complete house. When the log package is delivered, a log home company representative or an independent builder hired by the homeowner should be onsite to accept it and take stock of its contents.
Because their reputations depend on it, both builders and log home producers want their homes to be soundly built. To ensure a home's success, the manufacturer's representative usually will visit a job site several times during construction. Some manufacturers also provide builders and owners follow-up help by phone. As you compare log home manufacturers, ask about the types of onsite assistance that are available, and when it comes time to buy, make sure this assistance is spelled out in the sales contract. Even the most precisely milled logs won't form a perfectly sealed home if your builder doesn't assemble them according to the manufacturer's system.
If your builder doesn't have experience erecting your manufacturer’s log package, you might research ways he could gain relevant expertise (perhaps by attending a log home construction seminar; some companies offer these for free). Otherwise, you'll need assistance from the manufacturer to erect your log home.
How long will you wait before your package is delivered? The time required to fulfill an order varies from one manufacturer to another. Once you and your manufacturer complete and approve your plans, it will take several days to prepare the logs for an average-sized home. However, during the busy season, when the manufacturer is taking many orders at once, delivery time can stretch from weeks to a few months.
Most companies require a refundable deposit when you sign the contract for a log package. Before handing over a check, request a written explanation of the company's deposit-return policy.
How producers charge for their initial payment is yet another variable, those that pre-cut the logs may request most of the bill up front. Most companies require a payment of about half the package price once you approve the design and commit to the project. Typically, the balance of your log package price will be due either before the logs are loaded for delivery or when the trucks arrive at your site. Construction loans usually are granted in stages, or draws, as payments are due.
You may also incur expenses by having a log home company's design staff create custom blueprints for your home. If, after the plans are drawn, you choose not to use the log home company's design, part of your deposit may be kept by the company as payment for the design services they've provided.
As you explore a variety of producers, you may discover some manufacturers don't offer log packages, just milled and shaped logs. These producers, who may be affiliated with an independent sawmill or lumberyard, generally offer few services beyond providing raw, ungraded logs priced by the linear foot. You or your builder will then need to cut, stack and fasten the logs into walls.
Handcrafting 101
Log home handcrafters traditionally are smaller operations that produce logs much like settlers did centuries ago. Hand-held tools are used to de-bark, cut and shape each log. While some of these tools (think chain saws, chippers and sanders) are power-assisted, others are the same kind of axes, chisels and drawknives that woodworkers and carpenters have used for hundreds of years.
Because these craftsmen fashion log shells by hand, most create fewer than 25 homes a year. Some produce as few as three or four. Handcrafted log homes truly are custom-built. Prior to delivery, the production crew stacks the walls, log by log, on a temporary foundation (or piers) in the handcrafter's yard. As the handcrafters work, logs are cut and notched to fit properly in the log wall.
Unlike manufacturers, who emphasize log uniformity, handcrafters generally select that span the full length of a wall, then cut and shape each log to fit one specific location in the home. Once the walls are finished, the logs are numbered to record their exact location in the shell. The walls are dismantled, and the logs are trucked to the home site for final assembly. Window and door openings usually (though not always) are cut into the log walls after they've been erected on the home site.
Handcrafters view their work as art, and their homes reflect this philosophy. But as log homes become larger and more complex, these artisans increasingly consult engineers and architects to ensure that their homes meet building codes. If you choose a small handcrafter, you may need to give advance notice ranging from several months to a year to receive your logs on time. Payment terms vary from one company to another. You may need a down payment of roughly one-third of the total when you approve plans for your home. Once work starts, handcrafters may require progress payments. Your final payment may be due before the logs leave the yard, when the logs are erected or when the home is complete. Protect yourself by making sure the terms and payment methods are clearly defined in your contract.
How To Choose
In the United States and Canada, more than 400 manufacturers and handcrafters produce log homes. With so many choices, you'll have to narrow the field to make your selection. Initially, you can eliminate producers who simply aren't convenient to your site. The type of system you want also will reduce the number of candidates.
As a log home buyer, you will need to evaluate the claims made by the producers. The information in this article will help you make an informed decision.
You also may find it valuable to tour a log home producer's plant or office. The staff may offer you the opportunity to buy a home during your visit, but you shouldn't feel pressured to sign a contract. Never give a deposit before you read the contract or agreement and understand all refund conditions. The amount of pressure, as well as your impression of the producer, is indicative of what it will be like to work closely with their company.
If you can't travel to the plant, try to visit a sales office or representative's model home. Because you'll work closely with your producer's local representative, it's important that you're comfortable with this individual.
Also, purchase and study producer's sales materials. They should explain the company's philosophy and reflect the effort it puts into developing its homes.
As you search, note each producer's ability to meet its deadlines. A conscientious firm will provide floor plans or quotes when promised. If a company can't deliver on time before you make a commitment, it may signal a lack of customer service that could become even more disconcerting later.
Custom Fit
After shuffling through a few log home company catalogs, you may come across what seems to be a perfect stock floor plan. Many companies attract customers through interesting floor plans, but this doesn't mean you can't make changes. Indeed, more than 80 percent of log homeowners tweak stock plans or sketch their own plans to customize their home.
You might ask questions about the company's design staff. Find out about the designers' training. Taking the time to visit homes they've designed and produced will give you a feel for the designers' talents. Ask the homeowners if they enjoyed working with company's designers. Did they communicate directly with the design staff, or did the company's representative serve as a liaison? Did the arrangement work well?
Contractual Details
After you've selected your log home producer, ask for written proof that its homes meet or exceed the requirements of the building code in the location where you'll construct your home. Remember that codes vary from region to region. Many producers already have developed the required engineering analysis to show that their building systems meet code. It's standard policy to provide consumers with this documentation.
Read the producer's warranty, and ask what the company does when problems arise. If building materials such as windows, doors or roof shingles will be included in the package you buy, ask for the manufacturer's warranties. Warranties should specify what problems are covered, how they'll be handled and what your cost, if any, will be. If you want the assurance of graded logs, find out if your producer offers this service or arrange to have it provided by a third party.
Take a look at the company's construction manual, and bear in mind the size of each company when comparing manuals. Smaller or newer companies may have construction manuals that aren't terribly flashy, but chances are these companies still build high-quality homes. These firms may compensate by spending more time providing onsite technical assistance. You also may discover that larger, established companies will provide an excellent manual and a specified number of hours of onsite technical assistance along with their log packages.
Log Delivery
The way a company handles delivery often reveals its level of organization. There are several questions you'll want answered when choosing your log producer.
Will the producer ship the logs on its own trucks or by common carrier? A driver who regularly delivers for the company may be better able to deliver logs just where and how you need them. How much notice will you have prior to delivery? This notice is important if you need to pay for equipment or people to unload the logs, or if you have to travel to your building site. How much time does the producer allow for unloading? After a specified period, you may be charged an hourly fee by the trucking company. Will the logs be numbered, coded or loaded in reverse order so the last ones unloaded will be the first ones used when the walls are erected? This is the most efficient way. Otherwise, each log will require double handling. If delivery is delayed, will the producer agree to pay extra labor and equipment costs?
What You'll Pay
Because log package contents vary, comparing prices can be difficult. To maintain consistency as you compare price quotes, be certain to submit the same floor plan and specifications for finishes and fixtures to each log home producer you're considering. Using similar data will make it easier to choose the producer best suited to build you home.
As you begin to map out your home, you'll encounter questions you hadn't considered. You may even become uneasy about all of the choices you have to make-from the ceiling finish in your great room to the type of trim you want in your kitchen. The choices can be daunting. But if you do your homework, the answers will come easily and your home will come together beautifully.
Building Your Home
Once you've selected the company that will provide your log package, you will need to decide who will build your house. This person, or persons, will take your log package and turn it into a home by adding all of the finishing touches. Depending on your building experience, you can have your home finished by a building professional or tackle the project yourself. Here are the most popular choices.
Builder-Dealers
Many log home producers have a network of representatives, some of whom offer general contracting services. These representatives are often referred to as builder-dealers. If your representative doesn't build homes, you'll need to hire an independent builder or serve as your own.
Builders & General Contractors
These independent professionals supervise the construction of your log home from start to finish. Builders usually operate their own construction companies and have their own crew, equipment and trucks. General contractors, on the other hand, hire a fleet of specialized subcontractors to finish a home.
Whether you hire a builder or general contractor, both will obtain permits, schedule inspections and use their buying power as professionals to obtain materials for your project. Choosing the right person to build your home is essential. Therefore, take your time. Collect and compare bids, talk to other homeowners and carefully check references before making a selection.
Owner-Builders
Because general contractors typically earn a percentage of the total project cost as their pay, some homebuyers are able to save money by doing their own general contracting. If you think you have the time, patience and construction expertise to manage these tasks, talk about the process with homeowners who served as their own builders. Their advice will be invaluable. You may discover that you could save just as much money-with far fewer hassles-by doing some of the finishing work (painting, staining and landscaping) yourself and leaving the rest of the job to a building professional.
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Fill In The Cracks
Find the proper sealant to keep you (and your logs) warm, dry and worry-free.
To shelter our families from the effects of cold air, burning sun and drenching water, we build homes. With wood's natural ability to insulate and retain heat, a log home puts you a step ahead of the game. But be- cause stacked log walls shift over time, you'll need to account for the pockets of space that can occur. In come sealants.
Sealants are applied between log courses and around openings to keep your home airtight, dry and pest-free; they are needed in log home construction because of the unique nature of wood and what happens to it after it's harvested. Once cut, the natural stresses the tree has endured in battling gravity and supporting its weight are released. As a result, the timber warps, twists and shrinks as it reaches a new equilibrium and loses moisture from its cells. Even standing dead timber or logs that are kiln-dried to a low moisture content still shift slightly after being fashioned into a wall system.
Recognizing this, log home designers have engineered their wall systems to al- low for movement while maintaining a tight seal. The greatest amount of movement or settlement in your walls will occur during the first three to five years after construction, depending on your climate and your wall system. After this period, there may be more movement throughout the course of the home's life- time, but it's not likely to be noticeable. Indeed, a successful sealant system should accommodate both the amount of movement in the first few years as well as slower changes that occur over time.
Certain locations, particularly around doors and windows or at a comer, are more prone to leaks. Seldom do sealants fail in more than one or two locations unless the home wasn't built to the producer's construction specifications. With today's sophisticated building systems serious failures-where you see daylight between logs, for example-are extremely rare. More probable is a slight draft or a visible water stain where a seal has broken. If the home has been caulked or chinked, bubbles will indicate where maintenance is needed.
In these instances, the remedy is as basic as re-caulking or re-chinking the area or reinstalling a window or door. Though minor, these problems can be annoying. So, ask your builder and log home producer what kind of warranties they offer and read about the terms and conditions that apply.
Getting to Know Sealants
Mother Nature's goal with wood, once it has been harvested, is to encourage decay with an arsenal of relentless forces that include sunlight, wind, water and insects. Fortunately for log homeowners, the sealant industry has perfected a wide variety of innovative products that are designed to foil the weather and protect these wood wall systems.
Sealants vary in their ease of application, cost, durability and aesthetic appeal. Log home producers typically recommend one or more sealant product lines to match their log profile or building system. Builders often have their favorite products as well. The sealants used on your home may include caulk, chinking, splines, foam gaskets and adhesives. Each product has benefits and drawbacks.
Caulk
Many homeowners and builders use caulk, which is an effective and afford- able method for sealing a log home against the elements. For experienced builders, it's fairly easy to apply. However, novices and do-it-yourselfers should be aware that caulk could leave a visible seal of protection. Neatness counts and ensuring a careful job is time-consuming. Wall movement and other factors can affect caulk performance and cause bubbling over time. Caulk may need to be reapplied every few years, depending on the type of caulk you use and your climate.
Fortunately, caulk used for log homes is becoming increasingly durable. Caulk manufacturers, of which there are a growing number, have created specific product lines for log home construction. The cost of caulk varies by type and brand. An inexpensive caulk may nee, replacing every few years, while a more expensive caulk could last for decade! But cost and performance aren't the only issues. To learn more, see "Caulking Points" on page 143.
Chinking
Another common sealant material, particularly for handcrafted log homes, is chinking. Visible on the surface of the log walls, chinking is both functional and decorative. Chinking can be a dramatic visual complement to a particular log profile or stain. It's popular among log homeowners who want a hand-hewn or historical look.
In the early days of cabin construction logs didn't touch each other horizontally so wide bands of chinking were strictly functional. Primitive chinking was just about any material people could stuff between logs to keep out wind and rain- usually clay mixed with straw. More recently, mortar or cement was used, but this wasn't a good option because it pulled away from the logs once it hardened.
A host of new chinking materials has emerged during the past 20 years. Unlike the chinking used in days gone by, modern chinking remains soft and pliable for years. It has excellent adhesion, cohesion, recovery and durability. If you visit a recently built log home, press the chinking with your finger. You'll find that after you pull away, the material instantly re- covers its shape. This elasticity is what makes it useful for keeping a home weather tight, even with log movement. Modem chinking performs much like caulk does in terms of preserving the home's seal. It can be used on the interior and exterior of your walls. However, like caulk, chinking may need maintenance and reapplication over time.
Keep in mind though that it's slightly more labor-intensive to apply chinking than caulk. So, although chinking is affordable, the cost of labor to apply it on a large home can add up.
Splines
Another sealant technique is splines. These are long thin strips of rigid material that serve as a bridge between logs once they are inserted into slots cut into the wood. Splines are commonly used at corners or butt joints (where two logs are joined end-to-end in a wall system). Many builders like using splines because, should caulking or a foam gasket fail, the splines will remain in place to seal the inside. Splines can be made of wood, Masonite or vinyl. Some builders and producers prefer vinyl, reasoning that other materials will crack or split when subject to the stress of wall movement.
Gaskets
Foam gaskets are flexible strips that can handle log wall movement while still keeping a tight seal. Many producers use them, typically placing them between the courses of logs and at comer sections to prevent drafts. They're usually made of polyurethane or polyvinylchloride and come in closed- or open-cell form.
The closed-cell version is composed of bubble-like cells that compress and expand to maintain the seal while shedding water. Open-cell gaskets also expand and contract but, because they absorb in a sponge-like fashion, they are soaked with oils or resins to repel water. The closed- and open-cell gaskets enjoy long life spans, up to as many as 40 years.
A word of caution: Don't confuse foam gaskets with expanding foam, an insulating material used in convention construction. Because it expands dramatically upon application and then hardens, the material can actually separate the logs from each other and create gaps.
Construction Adhesive
A final option, construction adhesive, is a glue-like substance that dries to a semi I transparent amber color. It's popular because it's inexpensive and easy to use which saves time and money during the building process.
However, once dry, adhesives lack flexibility. If you're using extremely dry logs or a half-log system around a conventional stud-framed wall, construction adhesives are a good choice. But if you've opted for a full-log building system that will see significant settling or movement over time, consider a different sealant.
Expect to see one or a combination of these sealants in your new home to keep it energy-efficient.
If you don't have a sealant preference, it's likely that your builder will. But don't automatically adopt his choice. Before giving your builder the go-ahead, take the time to visit log homes he's built that are at least four years old. You'll see first-hand ~how the sealant has performed. Ask whether there have been any failures that could be attributed to the sealant. What remedies were used to correct them? If feasible, inspect the log walls, particularly the exterior of the south-facing side of the home, which will see more punishment from ultraviolet rays. Check for water stains inside. If caulk or chinking was used, look for bubbles in the material or areas that have been repaired.
Don’t Blow Your Gasket
Here are six factors to consider when comparing gasket materials:
1. Ease of installation. Some gaskets come with a self-sticking adhesive strip to make installing them on logs a snap. Other gaskets are simply stapled onto the logs.
2. Preservative compatibility. Whether the preservative will be applied to your logs before or after construction, make sure your gasket is compatible with it. Some foam gaskets will adhere only to untreated wood or will deteriorate if exposed to preservatives.
3. Water absorption. Whether open- or closed-cell, your foam gaskets should definitely have a low water-absorption rate.
4. Durability. Gaskets can break down over time and become brittle or crack from sun and ozone exposure.
5. Compression. This measures the ease that the gasket compresses when placed between logs; the lower the compression force needed, the better. If the gasket is difficult to compress, “log float” occurs, causing the logs to be slightly separated even after the wall is fastened.
6. Compression recovery. This is the gasket’s ability to return to its original height following compression. A high rate of recovery is always desirable.
Choose wisely when deciding which sealant system to use and who to apply it.
Caulking points
If your builder or log producer chooses caulk as the sealant for your home, ask why. It’s important for you to know because you’re the one in charge of maintenance down the road. The choice may have to do with your climate, your log species or style or some other factor. Be sure to address these points:
Adhesion. The ability to stick to the surface of other objects. The adhesion effectiveness may be reduced if applied to logs treated with preservatives.
Cohesion. Measures caulks ability to hold together when pulled apart.
Durability. The ability to retain adhesive, cohesive and recovery properties over 20- to 40-years, enduring wall movement, temperature changes and other natural forces.
Cure rate. The amount of time needed for the substance to form a non-sticky skin. This can be an issue because dirt and dust blowing around your job site can stick to the caulk before it cures.
Shrinkage. Measures the evaporation of the caulks solvent or water. Caulks shrinkage is usually minimal because it’s designed to absorb those stresses.
Recovery. Refer’s to caulks elasticity or the material’s ability to return to its original shape after repeated stretching.
Shelf life. The length of time the caulk retains it sealant qualities in the container. Most containers include expiration dates.
Stainability. The ability to accept coats of stain. Other than acrylics, most caulks accept stain. Acrylic caulks come in a variety of colors.
Ease of cleanup. Water-based acrylics clean easily with soap and water. Butyl and oil-based caulks require mineral spirits. Silicone- and urethane-based caulks require a toxic substance such as toluene.
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The Manor, Protected
Sure, Mother Nature has an impact on your home, but here are the simple steps to combat her every step of the way.
Walk inside any log home-or better yet, talk to log homeowners-and you'll understand immediately why these classic residences are so appealing. They're visually arresting, abundantly inviting and offer as much warmth as a family reunion. Indeed, all that rich wood stacked uniformly casts one amazing spell.
Which means that protecting your investment (namely, the logs) may seem a bit daunting. The reality, however, is that it's no more work to maintain a log home than a brick or vinyl-sided house. The only differences you'll find involve techniques, products and the overall focus of what you're maintaining from year to year.
With a log home, your focus is on protecting the wood from an array of potential problems. As soon as a tree is harvested, Mother Nature's goal is to break it down into mulch. Patient forces, including water, sun, fungi, mold, mildew and insects, begin to attack the logs. Throw in seasonal temperature swings, which cause wood to swell and shrink and break down the fibers, and you're left with a gumbo of issues waiting to attack your logs.
Fortunately, manufacturers have created hundreds of protective products that could rival the selection of vitamins in a health-food store. Designed to shield your new home, these treatments come in liquid, powder or solid form, and they serve different functions. Some seal out moisture, some block me sun and some discourage bugs and fungi.
A Protective Shield
Treatment to protect your logs can begin before construction starts and should continue for the life of the home. Here are the most common techniques.
1. Thorough drying. Because water inside the wood can support a host of harmful organisms, log home producers first reduce the moisture content of the logs. They may air-dry the wood for up to a year or more, heat the logs in huge kilns (this reduces moisture and kills insect larvae) or use a combination of air and kiln drying.
2. Borate treatment. Some log home producers also protect the wood from insects and fungi by dipping them in tanks filled with a borate-based solution or infusing them with a borate preservative through pressure treating. (Your builder can also apply borate solutions with a brush or a sprayer if your producer doesn’t offer it, but keep in mind that borate-based solutions must be applied before staining so the borate can enter the wood.)
3. Cleaning. Once the logs are assembled at your home site, they should be treated with a cleaning solution to remove mill glaze, road grime and mud and dirt accumulated during construction. Each of these substances can prevent preservatives and finishes from adhering to the wood.
4. Wood preservatives. The next treatment will likely be a wood preservative. The most important role of a preservative is to repel your logs’ primary enemy: water. Water promotes mold and mildew and attracts fungi and insects-all of which can break down the wood. Normally, it’s good to apply a preservative to your logs every three to five years. But the maintenance schedule varies, depending on factors such as the climate in which you build and the specific preservative you select.
Keep in mind that the water repellents commonly used on decks or fences may not work well on logs. These repellents, called closed-film coatings, form a hard, brittle, high-gloss finish that can crack as logs expand and contract with temperature variations and moisture loss. Once the finish cracks, fungi and moisture can enter and attack the wood. A better preservative for log homes is a microporous-film coating. This sticks to the edges of the wood's open pores, reducing their size. Rain or dewdrops are unable to enter the smaller pores, but moisture vapor still can escape from inside the log.
A third option-an open-pore, non-film coating-is made with oils or wax that contains color pigments. This type of treatment soaks into the wood fibers and repels moisture. But since it doesn't create a protective film, it may not work well in certain climates.
Whatever your choice, it's best to use a wood preservative that's formulated specifically for log homes. It can be tempting to choose a less expensive product from your local hardware store, but many of these products aren't up to the task. Plus, if you scrimp on the exterior finishes that are protecting your large investment, you'll end up paying for it in the long run.
5. Biocides. To protect against fungi, mold, mildew and insects, some manufacturers add chemicals called biocides to their preservatives. Although these agents are safe for humans and animals, they kill the organisms that feed on wood.
6. Sunblock. Manufacturers offer sunblocks and pigmented preservatives to mitigate the damaging effects of the sun's ultraviolet rays. Each of these products has tradeoffs. Sunblocks allow you to see the natural color of the wood, but the ultraviolet-absorbing agents they contain often are short-lived. That means you'll have to re-treat the logs every year or two. Pigmented preservatives last longer and do a better job screening out the sun, but the colored particles in the pigment change the tone of the wood.
If you prefer pigmentation, manufacturers offer a number of tints direct from the factory, as well tints you can custom-mix. (Before applying a tinted preservative to your whole home, it's always wise to test it on an unobtrusive area to see if you like the look.)
7. Finish coatings. Depending on which product line you use, you may have to spread on a final finish coat after applying the wood preservative or stain. It's worth it: This finish coat will reflect ultraviolet rays and add another layer of water repellency.
Treatment Options
Some manufacturers market one product that offers protection from a multitude of problems; others provide specific products to fight individual problems such as fungi, insects, mold or mildew. Why so many products? Because a number of factors will determine which product is best for your home.
• You need different treatments for different climates.
• Some products work better with one wood species than another. Logs with coarse grain and large, open pores will absorb more solution than wood with finer grain and smaller pores.
• Logs with high moisture content may be less likely to absorb a treatment than drier logs.
• A log home high on a mountainside will need more protection from sun, rain and wind than a home in a stand of trees.
• Finally, your personal color preference may affect which treatment you choose, since the pigment in the preservative will change the look of your home.
How do you sort out which finishing system is right for your logs? A smart supplier will ask about the location of your home, the wood species, the climate in your area and your color preference, and then recommend a product to fit your needs. You also can research the different products on the Internet. The producers of many log finishing systems have comprehensive web sites that list their products, where you can find them locally, charts for determining color tones, as well as the recommended strengths of particular preservatives and suggested maintenance schedules.
Whatever you choose, it's crucial that the products are formulated to work together. Cleaners need to work with preservatives and preservatives with chinking. And everything has to be compatible with whatever your log producer may have used on the wood initially. If you switch product lines, the old and new products may not work together chemically. For example, not all oil-based stains are compatible with one another; the same is true of latex-based stains. After a few years, if you want to change the type of protection you're using, you may have to strip the previous finish from the logs first.
Inspect Your Logs Often
Next to using a good line of finishing products; the best way to defend against Mother Nature's forces is to inspect your logs regularly. At a minimum, you should check your logs every spring and fall. Carefully study the face and comer sections, keeping a sharp eye out for any discoloration, ultraviolet degradation or evidence of insects. Also watch for situations that can cause potential problems, such as sprinkler heads wetting your logs, leaky gutters, splash back from down-spouts, or bushes and trees too close to your home. All of these can create a humid environment and encourage decay or infestation.
You also may want to contract with a good pest control company. A representative will apply liquid soil treatments once a year and, if insects appear, he can install bait systems then return monthly or quarterly to check them.
Again, if you're just as vigilant with the inspection and maintenance of your log home as you are with your current home, you'll be able to discover any problems early and figure out why they're occurring. Then, instead of spending money to correct the symptoms, you'll simply wipe out the root causes.
So, what's the secret to hassle-free log home living? Keep an eye on those logs, and they'll shelter a lifetime of memories.
7 Design Safeguards
While there area host of products available to shield your home from the elements once it has been built, you can take preventive measures earlier-at the design stage-that will significantly protect your logs from moisture and sun damage. Here are some guidelines.
1. Design your home so the roof has wide overhangs (at least 2 feet wide for single-story homes and 4 feet wide for two-story homes). Wide overhangs shield more of the walls' surface from sun and rain.
2. Include a porch on the side of your home that will absorb the worst of the weather. A wide porch further screens the logs from sun and rain damage.
3. Plan the foundation so the logs and other wood materials will be at least 18 inches above ground-well above where rain and snow may accumulate.
4. Don't plant trees within 20 feet of the home. If you do, the roots may grow under the foundation, creating a path for water, which can destabilize the foundation.
5. Don't plant shrubs within 24 inches of the home, and don't use wood mulch, pine straw or other ground covers close to the foundation. They can attract insects. Instead, use rock or other inorganic materials to cover the ground.
6. Always make sure the ground around the foundation slopes away from your home.
7. Install gutters and splashguards that direct water away from the home, so water can't pool by the foundation.
Insects: Control, Eradication
An array of insects is attracted to wood, and they're all aiming for one of two goals: to eat the wood or to nest in it.
Powder post beetles, old-house borers and flatheaded borers are some of the more dangerous threats to log homes. They're followed by minor pests such as carpenter bees and carpenter ants. To handle these pests. You need to apply wood preservatives periodically, inspect your home for telltale signs of the insects and caulk all checks and cracks where these pests might gain entry.
Termites are even a greater threat to your logs-particularly Formosan termites. Since the mid-1960s, Formosan termites have been seen with increasing regularity in the coastal areas of the United States. Not native to this continent, they're now active in all warm southern coastal areas.
What makes this species so dangerous is its ingenious ability to flourish, often in hostile environments. The pest prefers a warm, dark and wet wood environment, especially one with fungi. Like other termites, they're sensitive to dry environments and exposure to open air. However, they overcome these sensitivities by bringing their own water and nest-making materials with them. Worse, their mobile colonies are typically 10 times the size of other termites.
The best way to combat any type of termite is by building your home with logs that have been pressure-treated with borate. The borate must penetrate 2 inches or more beyond the surface and preferably throughout the wood.
Another good way to deter all kinds of termites is to raise the foundation at least 18 inches above grade, so the log walls or other perimeter materials aren't in direct contact with the ground.
If you're planning to build a log home in a coastal area, you also should have your builder apply termite shields around the sill plates or first course of logs. While these metal shields won't stop termites, they do make it easier to see the mud tunnels that the termites build to span the space between the ground and the wood.
If you encounter termites, don't rely on over-the-counter termite baits to eliminate them. Only the Dow Centricon system has proven to be effective at eliminating stand-alone colonies.
Moisture: Stay Vigilant
Repeated exposure to moisture will eventually roughen the surface of exterior log walls and leave small cavities that may promote the growth of fungi or mold.
Fungi are one of the culprits behind rotting wood. They can discolor the wood and open it up to other organisms, or it can actually eat the wood and structurally weaken it. This natural process can manifest itself in a number of ways, including brown rot and white rot. Brown rot makes the wood darker than normal, causing unsightly cracks against the grain and may eventually shrink or collapse the wood.
White rot drains the wood of its color as the fungus feeds on the cellulose and lignin, which are the building blocks that give the wood its strength.
Fortunately, fungi attack wood only when certain conditions are present, including moisture, food (the wood fibers) and temperature. Since there's no way you can control temperature, you have to control the fungi's access to moisture and food.
Decay-causing fungi occur in wood that has moisture content in excess of 30 percent. You can keep down the moisture content of your logs by applying a good wood preservative. This will repel water from the surface. You also can apply a fungicide, which many log home producers do even before shipping the logs to your building site. Keep in mind, though, that fungicides usually have to be applied annually.
If rot appears in your logs, all is not lost. You can employ one of the many water-repelling borate treatments that are on the market. Borate is an EPA-approved, low-cost way to stop rot and decay from growing inside of the log. You typically drill a hole in the log on each side of a problem area and then insert one or more borate sticks and seal them in by caulking the opening. The borate slowly dissolves and diffuses throughout the wood, killing the fungi.
Mold can be a problem in wet climates such as the Pacific Northwest and some parts of Florida. This is especially true on the north-facing areas of your home that don't receive direct sunlight. Mold can turn softwoods green, orange or black and can create dark spots on hardwoods. To fight mold, you need to treat it with a cleaner that is specifically created to remove mold and mildew, or use a mild solution of bleach and water.
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